Samshvilde

Samshvilde is the ruined site of one of medieval Georgia's great cities, set on a long rocky promontory where the Chivchavi river meets the Khrami in Tetritskaro municipality. Cliffs drop away on either side into the gorges, giving the city natural defences that made it a prize for centuries. Today you walk among the remains of walls, towers, houses and churches, with the ruined Samshvilde Sioni cathedral, built in the 8th century, as the centrepiece. The views down into the gorges are dramatic, and you are likely to have the place nearly to yourself.

Samshvilde is a site for wandering rather than guided sightseeing. Paths are informal, with loose stones and unfenced drops at the cliff edges, so watch your step and keep children close. Bring water and sun protection, as there is little shade and no facilities. It pairs well with Birtvisi or Manglisi on a day trip through Tetritskaro municipality, and in spring the surrounding plateau is green and full of wildflowers.

Medieval chronicles describe Samshvilde as one of the oldest cities of Kartli, and finds go back to the Early Bronze Age. It was the seat of a duke (eristavi), fell under the Arab emirate of Tbilisi in the 8th century, and in the late 10th century became the capital of the Armenian Kuirikid kingdom of Tashir-Dzoraget. It joined the Kingdom of Georgia in 1064, was held by the Seljuks from about 1073 until 1110, and was sacked by Jahan Shah of the Kara Koyunlu in 1440. By the end of the 18th century it lay in ruins.