- Stepantsminda (Kazbegi) lies about 155 km up the Georgian Military Road from Tbilisi: around 3 hours of non-stop driving, or 3 to 3.5 hours on the minibus.
- The cheapest way is the minibus from Didube bus station, a 2026 fare of roughly 15-20 GEL ($6-7) that you hand the driver in cash; it does not stop at the sights.
- A private driver costs more but turns the trip into a day out with Ananuri, Pasanauri, Gudauri and the Friendship Monument on the way.
- A law in force since 2024 requires winter tyres on designated mountain roads for the period 1 December to 1 March. Big snowfalls also close the Gudauri to Kobi stretch, where the road crosses the Jvari Pass at a height of 2,379 m, usually for hours and sometimes for a day or more.
- The new Kvesheti to Kobi road with its 9 km tunnel had not opened to traffic by mid-October 2026, so every option still crosses the old pass.
For the lowest fare from Tbilisi to Kazbegi, ride the marshrutka that leaves from Didube bus station; to make stops on the way, hire a private driver. Shared taxis from Didube sit between the two, and driving yourself works well from late spring to autumn, with more care and the right tyres in winter. All four use the same road north over the Jvari Pass, so the choice is really about money, comfort and how many stops you want.
This page is the practical companion to our Tbilisi to Kazbegi route page, which lists the stops with distances and the private transfer prices. Here you get the how: where exactly the minibus stands, what to say and when to arrive, how to agree a shared car, what a self-drive day looks like, the winter tyre law, how to find out whether the pass is open, and how to come back. For what to do once you arrive, read our Kazbegi travel guide.
Tbilisi to Kazbegi: which option suits you
Start with three questions. Are you travelling alone or as two, or as a family or group? Do you want to see Ananuri, Gudauri and the Friendship Monument, or just reach Stepantsminda? And is it between December and March? The table below answers most cases.
| Option | Time | Cost in 2026 | Stops on the way | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Marshrutka from Didube | 3 to 3.5 h | roughly 15-20 GEL ($6-7) a seat | None, one short break | Solo travellers and couples on a budget, people staying several nights |
| Shared taxi from Didube | about 3 h | roughly 40-60 GEL ($15-22) a seat | Only if agreed first | Travellers who want a faster ride without paying for a whole car |
| Private driver or transfer | 3 h driving, 6 to 8 h with stops | see the vehicle prices on our route page | As many as you like | Families, groups of 3 or more, anyone who wants the sights |
| Self-drive rental | about 3 h, more in traffic | rental plus fuel | As many as you like | Confident drivers in summer; winter only with proper tyres and chains |
| Kazbegi day tour | 10 to 11 h round trip | see the tour page | The main sights plus Gergeti by 4x4 | Visitors with one day who sleep in Tbilisi |
Group size changes the maths quickly. For one person the minibus is far cheaper than anything else. For three or four people sharing a car, the gap per head narrows and you gain the stops, a door-to-door pick-up and space for luggage.
Marshrutka from Didube to Kazbegi, step by step
The public minibus to Stepantsminda leaves from Didube bus station, the big transport yard in the north of Tbilisi that serves most routes heading north and west. There is no online booking and, as far as we know in 2026, no ticket office for this route: you find the van, take a seat and pay the driver in cash.
- Get to Didube
Take the metro to Didube station on the Akhmeteli-Varketili line, the one that runs through Station Square and Rustaveli. A single ride costs about 1 GEL (2026) and you pay with a metro card or a contactless bank card. A Bolt from Freedom Square takes 15 to 30 minutes depending on traffic and costs roughly 15 GEL. - Find the Kazbegi vans
Leave the metro and follow the crowd into the bus yard next to the station, past market stalls and kiosks. Look for a board in the windscreen reading Kazbegi or Stepantsminda, often only in Georgian: ყაზბეგი or სტეფანწმინდა. If you cannot see it, say "Kazbegi?" to any driver; someone will point you to the right bay within a minute. - Arrive early
Departures run through the day, roughly hourly from the morning into the late afternoon, but a van usually leaves when it is full rather than on the dot. In summer and on weekends, come 30 to 45 minutes before you want to leave so you get a seat, ideally one on the right-hand side going north for the best views over the Aragvi. - Stow your bag and pay
Small backpacks go on your lap or under the seat. Big suitcases go in the back or on the roof, and drivers sometimes ask a little extra for bulky luggage. Pay in lari, in cash, either when you board or when you arrive; have small notes ready, as change can be short. - The ride
Expect 3 to 3.5 hours with one short break, often around Pasanauri or Gudauri. The van does not wait at viewpoints. You can ask to be dropped at Ananuri or Gudauri, but you will then need to flag down a later van with a free seat, which is unreliable on busy days. - Arrival
Vans finish in the centre of Stepantsminda by the main square, where shops, cash machines and 4x4 drivers for Gergeti, Juta and Truso gather. Most guesthouses are within a 15-minute walk.
A rule moving long intercity routes of over 150 km from minivans to full-size buses was announced for June 2025, and the Kazbegi run sits right at that distance. Reports disagree on whether it is being enforced or has been pushed back, so you may find either the classic white van or a larger bus. Both leave from the same yard and the routine is the same.
Private driver or transfer from Tbilisi to Kazbegi
A private car is how most of our guests travel this road, because the sights between the two ends are half the reason to go. You are collected at your hotel at the time you choose, you stop where you like, and your luggage stays in the boot. Our Tbilisi to Kazbegi route page has the stop list with kilometres and minutes and the price for each vehicle size, from a sedan to a minibus for a big family or group.
- Choose one-way or return
A one-way transfer with stops suits anyone sleeping in Stepantsminda. A day return suits travellers based in Tbilisi. Mixing works too: drive up with stops and come back by minibus a few days later. - Pick your stops
The classic set is Jvari Monastery above Mtskheta (22 km), the Zhinvali reservoir viewpoint (60 km), Ananuri (66 km), lunch in Pasanauri (88 km), Gudauri (120 km), the Friendship Monument (125 km), the mineral springs below the pass (133 km), Sno (148 km) and Gergeti Trinity Church at the end. - Set the start time
Leave Tbilisi by about 8:00 or 9:00 in summer to beat the traffic and the crowds at Ananuri and Gergeti. In winter, a start in daylight and an arrival before dark matters more than an early start. - Keep a margin in winter
If the pass is closed on the morning you planned, a good driver will wait, pick another day or suggest a different trip. That flexibility is the main reason to book a driver rather than rent in winter.
Driving from Tbilisi to Kazbegi yourself
The road is paved all the way and in summer an ordinary rental car is fine. It is the main road to the Upper Lars crossing into Russia, so you share it with a steady stream of trucks. Leave Tbilisi northwards past Mtskheta onto the Mtskheta-Stepantsminda-Larsi highway and follow the Aragvi upstream past Zhinvali and Ananuri. After Pasanauri the climb begins in earnest, with tight hairpins below Gudauri, then the road tops out at 2,379 m on the Jvari Pass and descends past Kobi into the Tergi valley.
- Fill the tank in Tbilisi or on the lower part of the road; prices are higher and stations fewer once you start climbing.
- Overtake trucks only where you can see far ahead. On the hairpins, wait; a truck gearing down will block the inside of the bend.
- North of the pass the road runs through several avalanche galleries. Switch on dipped headlights before you enter.
- Watch for cows and sheep on the road in summer, especially around Gudauri and Kobi, and for rockfall after rain.
- Parking is easy at most stops. At Gergeti, the paved road from Stepantsminda leads to a car park below the church; in snow, leave it to local 4x4s.
- Side valleys are a different matter: Juta and Truso need high clearance or a 4x4, so many drivers leave their rental in town and take a local jeep.
If your road has a chance of snow, read the next two sections before you book the car. In our experience, the rental desk rarely mentions the tyre law unless you ask.
Winter tyres and chains on the Kazbegi road
Georgia brought in a winter tyre law on 1 January 2024. From 1 December to 1 March, cars driving on road sections listed by the government must have winter tyres, and police can also order snow chains on the drive wheels when conditions call for it. The high stretch of the Kazbegi road between Gudauri and Kobi is widely reported to be on that list, and in practice it is where checks and turn-backs happen.
| Rule | What it means for you |
|---|---|
| When | 1 December to 1 March on listed sections; snow can arrive in November and stay into April, so treat late autumn to spring as tyre season |
| Tyres | Marked with the snowflake symbol, with at least 3 mm of tread on a car |
| Chains | Carry them; police can require them on the drive wheels in snow or ice |
| If you break it | A fine of 100 GEL and 5 penalty points under the 2024 rules, and police can refuse to let you continue |
When you rent, ask in writing for winter tyres with the snowflake mark and for a set of chains, and check them before you drive off. Practise fitting the chains in the car park in Tbilisi, not in a blizzard at the foot of the pass. A 4x4 helps on snow, but it does not replace proper tyres, and it stops no better on ice.
Jvari Pass closures and how to check the road status
The Military Road is kept open all year, but the section from Gudauri to Kobi over the Jvari Pass is closed when snow, blizzards or avalanche risk make it unsafe. Most closures last a few hours; after big storms they can run to a day or more. Restrictions come in stages, and the wording matters:
- "Closed for trailers and semi-trailers" or "closed for trucks": cars and minibuses can still pass. This is the most common winter notice and often means long lines of parked lorries.
- "Closed for all types of vehicles" on the Gudauri (Posta) to Kobi section: nobody gets through until it reopens.
- "Traffic through avalanche tunnels only" or similar: the road is open but tightly managed; expect delays.
Where to check
- The Roads Department of Georgia
The state road agency publishes closures and reopenings on its website, georoad.ge, and on its social media pages, usually in Georgian with the section named, such as Gudauri-Kobi. - English-language news
1TV and Georgia Today repeat the Roads Department notices in English within the hour, often with the exact section and which vehicles are affected. Search the news for Gudauri-Kobi on the morning you travel. - Your driver or guesthouse
People in Stepantsminda and Gudauri know the situation before it is online. A message to your guesthouse the evening before and again in the morning is the most practical check. - At the road
If police stop traffic at Gudauri or Kobi, wait in a safe place or turn back to Gudauri. Do not try side roads; there are none over this ridge.
Long truck queues near Kobi and Stepantsminda are a separate issue: they build up when the Upper Lars border slows down. Cars can usually pass them, but drive slowly, as drivers walk between the lorries.
Kvesheti-Kobi bypass tunnel: is it open?
A new road is being built to take traffic around the most exposed part of the pass. It runs about 23 km from Kvesheti, below Gudauri on the southern side, to Kobi on the northern side, with five tunnels and five bridges. Its main tunnel, about 9 km long and the longest in Georgia, was dug through in April 2024. The project is funded by the Asian Development Bank and the EBRD.
Opening dates have slipped several times. The latest official targets we found were early 2026 for the link toward Gudauri and early 2027 for the whole road. As of mid-October 2026 we have not seen an announcement that any part of it is open to public traffic, so every bus, taxi and car still crosses the old Jvari Pass.
When it does open, the drive should become faster and far more reliable in winter. The Friendship Monument and the roadside springs are on the old road, so with a private driver you can still choose the old route in summer for the views. We will update this page and the route page when the road opens.
Tbilisi to Kazbegi in summer and in winter
The same ~155 km feel very different through the year. Here is what changes for each way of travelling.
| Summer (June to September) | Winter (December to March) | |
|---|---|---|
| Road | Open, busy with trucks and tour vans | Usually open; Gudauri to Kobi closes after heavy snow |
| Minibus | Frequent departures, full by mid-morning | Fewer vans; may be cancelled when the pass is shut |
| Shared taxi | Easy to find | Fewer drivers; check tyres |
| Self-drive | Fine in an ordinary car | Winter tyres by law on listed sections, chains in the boot, daylight only |
| Journey time | About 3 h without stops | Allow 4 h or more, plus possible waits |
| Temperature in Stepantsminda | About 18-22°C by day | Often well below freezing, deep snow |
| Worth stopping for | Everything on the road, plus paragliding at Gudauri | Ananuri, Gudauri for skiing, Gergeti under snow |
Spring and autumn sit in between. In October and November the first snow can close the pass for a few hours while Tbilisi is still warm, and in April the road is usually clear while the mountains above are wet and avalanche-prone. In those months, check the forecast for Gudauri, not Tbilisi.
Getting back from Kazbegi to Tbilisi
Vans back to Tbilisi start from the central square of Stepantsminda, where the ones from Didube drop you. They follow the same leave-when-full pattern, with more departures in the morning and the last ones in the late afternoon. Ask your guesthouse the evening before; times change with the season and with demand. They arrive at Didube, from where the metro takes you to the centre.
- Shared taxis wait on the same square and fill up quickly on summer afternoons.
- A one-way private transfer down can include the stops you missed on the way up: Gudauri, Pasanauri for lunch and Ananuri in the afternoon light.
- Heading to Gudauri for skiing? It is about 35 km back up over the pass, and Tbilisi minibuses will drop you there.
- In winter, travel down in the morning, so a closure leaves you time to wait it out in daylight.
If one night under Kazbek is not enough, spend a week. Our Kazbegi hiking week keeps you in one hotel in Stepantsminda with a mountain guide and a new valley every day, with transfers from and back to Tbilisi included in the plan.
Common mistakes on the way to Kazbegi
- Going to the wrong station. Kazbegi vans leave from Didube, not from Samgori, Ortachala or the central railway station.
- Arriving at Didube at midday in summer and finding every seat taken until mid-afternoon.
- Taking the minibus and expecting to see Ananuri and the Friendship Monument. It drives past them.
- Planning a same-day return by minibus with a long walk to Gergeti. The last van down can leave before you get back.
- Renting a car in winter without asking for winter tyres and chains, then being stopped near Gudauri.
- Booking Kazbegi for the last day of a winter trip, with no spare day before the flight.
- Checking the weather for Tbilisi. Stepantsminda is often 8-10°C cooler, and the pass colder still.
- Assuming the new tunnel is open because it was announced. Check its status when you travel.
- Carrying no cash. Minibus drivers, shared taxis and 4x4 drivers in Stepantsminda want lari.
Tbilisi to Kazbegi: frequently asked questions
How long does it take to get from Tbilisi to Kazbegi?
Driving straight through takes about 3 hours; the marshrutka needs 3 to 3.5. With the usual sightseeing stops a private car takes 6 to 8 hours. In winter, add time for snow and possible waits at the Jvari Pass.
How much is the marshrutka from Tbilisi to Kazbegi?
Expect to pay roughly 15-20 GEL ($6-7) in 2026, in cash to the driver. Large suitcases sometimes cost a little extra. Fares change, so check with the driver before you sit down.
Can I book the Kazbegi marshrutka online?
No. Seats cannot be reserved; you turn up at Didube, find the Kazbegi van and pay the driver. On summer days and at weekends, get there half an hour or more before you want to leave.
Is the Kazbegi road open in winter?
Yes, it is kept open all year. The exception is the stretch between Gudauri and Kobi, across the Jvari Pass, which is shut after heavy snow or when avalanche risk is high. Check the Roads Department notices or ask your driver or guesthouse on the morning you travel.
Do I need winter tyres to drive to Kazbegi?
By law, cars on the listed mountain sections must have winter tyres between 1 December and 1 March; most reports put the Gudauri to Kobi road on that list. Police can also require chains. Ask your rental company for both.
Do I need a 4x4 to drive to Kazbegi?
Not for the main road, which is paved. A 4x4 is useful for Juta, Truso and in deep snow, but proper winter tyres matter more than four-wheel drive.
Is the Kvesheti-Kobi tunnel open?
Not as of mid-October 2026. The main 9 km tunnel was dug through in 2024, and official targets point to the whole road opening around early 2027. Until then all traffic uses the old Jvari Pass road.
Is a Tbilisi to Kazbegi day trip worth it?
Yes, if you go with a private driver or a day tour, which takes 10 to 11 hours and covers the road sights and Gergeti. By minibus a day trip is possible but rushed, so stay at least one night if you want to hike.
