Ananuri Fortress

Ananuri is a fortified complex on the Georgian Military Road, about 70 km north of Tbilisi, standing above the turquoise water of the Zhinvali Reservoir. It was the seat of the Eristavis (Dukes) of Aragvi, a feudal dynasty that ruled this valley from the 13th century. Inside the walls are two churches, a square tower and the remains of an upper castle on the slope above. It is the most photographed stop on the drive to Kazbegi.

The larger church, the Church of the Mother of God, was built in 1689 and has richly carved facades, including a large cross decorated with vines on the south wall, and remains of frescoes inside. You can climb the tower for a view over the walls and the reservoir. Stalls by the gate sell churchkhela, honey and souvenirs. The Zhinvali Reservoir viewpoint a few kilometres south gives the classic panorama of the water and hills.

The Eristavis of Aragvi ruled the valley from the 13th century, and Ananuri became their main seat. Most of what stands today dates from the 17th century: the older brick Church of the Virgin from the first half of the century, and the Church of the Mother of God from 1689, built for the son of Duke Bardzim. The castle was fought over in 18th-century feuds between rival dukes and stayed in use until the early 19th century. It has been on UNESCO's tentative list since 2007.