Tmogvi Fortress
Ruined medieval stronghold on a high crag above the Mtkvari gorge near Vardzia, reached by a steep hike.
Tmogvi FortressPhoto: jaba1977, AttributionTmogvi is the ruin of one of medieval Meskheti's strongest fortresses, perched on a steep crag high above the Mtkvari gorge a few kilometres downstream from Vardzia. The river and deep ravines protect it on two sides, and a secret tunnel once led down to the river so the garrison had water during sieges. Today you find broken towers, the remains of a central church, two deep rock-cut cisterns with carved steps and long stretches of collapsed wall.
Getting there is part of the experience. One route climbs a gravel track of a little over 3 km from near the village of Pia; another follows the river from the Vardzia side and then climbs steeply. Paths are faint and some easy scrambling is needed, so this is for fit walkers with good shoes. From the top the views over the gorge are among the best in the region. If you do not want to hike, the fortress is also striking from the road below.
History
Tmogvi first appears in the chronicles in 914, when the emir Yusuf ibn Abi'l-Saj approached it and then withdrew. In 1191 Queen Tamar granted it to Sargis Mkhargrdzeli, whose family held it for about a century; the writer and poet Sargis Tmogveli was the best known of them. Earthquakes in 1088, 1283 and 1319 wrecked the fortress, and each time it was rebuilt. The Ottomans took it in 1578.
What to see and do
- Hike up to the ruined towers and central church
- See the rock-cut cisterns with carved steps
- Look down over the Mtkvari gorge towards Vardzia
How to visit
Getting there
Tmogvi is just off the Akhaltsikhe-Vardzia road a few kilometres before Vardzia. Walk up from near Pia village on a gravel track of a little over 3 km, or take the riverside path from the Vardzia side.
When to go
May to June and September to October. Plan 2-3 hours including the hike here.
- Avoid the climb in midday heat or wet weather
- Stay out of the partly collapsed tunnel between the upper and lower sections
- Bring water, as there are no facilities at the top
Tmogvi Fortress: FAQ
How hard is the hike to Tmogvi Fortress?
It is steep, the path fades in places and there is some easy scrambling. Fit walkers manage it in about an hour each way; avoid the midday heat in summer.
Can you see Tmogvi without hiking?
Yes. The fortress is visible on its crag from the road to Vardzia, and many people simply stop for photos.
Nearby places
Straight-line distance from Tmogvi Fortress.
