Vanis Kvabebi

Vanis Kvabebi is a cave monastery carved into a cliff above the Mtkvari valley, a few kilometres from Vardzia. It is several centuries older than Vardzia, dating from the 8th century, and much smaller and quieter. A maze of tunnels runs through the rock on several levels, protected by a defensive wall built in 1204. Near the top of the wall stands a stone church in good condition, and higher still, at the level of the uppermost tunnels, a small domed church is set into the rock.

The climb is steep and the paths are uneven, but you get a sense of discovery that busy Vardzia lacks, plus fine views over the valley. Many visitors pair the two sites: Vanis Kvabebi in the cooler morning or late afternoon, and Vardzia at the other end of the day. Paths and visitor facilities were improved in recent years with international donor support.

The monastery was founded in the 8th century, long before Vardzia was carved. In 1204, during the reign of Queen Tamar, a defensive wall was built across the cliff to protect the caves and their monks. The complex later shared the fate of the other Meskhetian monasteries, declining after the region fell under Persian and then Ottoman control in the 16th century.