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Sabaduri Forest: Autumn Colours an Hour from Tbilisi

Autumn beech canopy over the Tbilisi-Tianeti road in Tbilisi National ParkPhoto: Paata Vardanashvili, CC BY-SA 4.0
Contents
Key takeaways
  • Sabaduri forest is the part of Tbilisi National Park that the Tbilisi-Tianeti road crosses ~45 km north-east of central Tbilisi, a drive of ~1 hour out through Gldani, Mamkoda and Tskhvarichamia.
  • The leaves are normally at their most colourful from mid-October into early November, with the last two full weeks of October the safest choice, but the timing moves by a week or more from one year to the next.
  • Entry is free. Visits are short walks on forest tracks, picnics at sites with fire pits and photo stops along ~8 km of road; there is no waymarked trail network inside Sabaduri itself yet, although new trails were announced in 2025.
  • Go on a weekday or leave the city early, because Tbilisi traffic fills the road on fine weekends and holidays, and never walk along the narrow, winding carriageway.
  • Without a car, ride a Didube minibus bound for Tianeti or Tskhvarichamia; with a driver, Sabaduri fills a half day or pairs with Sioni Lake, Mtskheta or the Military Road.

Sabaduri forest is the belt of beech, oak and hornbeam that the Tianeti road climbs through ~1 hour's drive north-east of Tbilisi, and between mid-October and early November it is the quickest way from the capital to a full canopy of autumn colour. It belongs to Tbilisi National Park, created in 1973 as Georgia's first national park, and the road tops out at ~1,300 m, so the leaves turn well before the city's parks and the first snow settles here while Tbilisi still gets rain.

This guide covers when the colour usually peaks and how to choose a good week, the drive and the minibus from Didube, the picnic sites and forest tracks, and the safety points that catch visitors out. It also shows how to fold Sabaduri into a longer day with Sioni Lake, Mtskheta or the Georgian Military Road, and ends with short answers to common questions.

Where is Sabaduri Forest?

Sabaduri is one section of Tbilisi National Park, which covers more than 20,000 ha of the Saguramo and Ialno ridges between the Mtkvari and Iori rivers. The name is used for the woodland on both sides of the Tbilisi-Tianeti road. From the northern district of Gldani, that road passes Mamkoda and Tskhvarichamia, then climbs over a wooded ridge before dropping to Ghulelebi village. The densest stretch, and the one in most photos, lies beyond Tskhvarichamia, where you drive ~8 km under almost unbroken trees.

Oriental beech is the main tree, mixed with oak, hornbeam and lime. That blend explains the autumn show: beech moves from lemon through copper to rust, hornbeam turns a clear yellow, and the oaks keep a duller bronze late into the season.

Sabaduri at a glanceDetails
RegionMtskheta-Mtianeti, Tbilisi National Park
From central Tbilisi~45 km, ~1 hour by car
AltitudeRoad high point ~1,300 m
Autumn colourUsually mid-October to early November
EntryFree
Time to allow1 to 3 hours in the forest; a half day from Tbilisi

Sabaduri forest in autumn: when do the colours peak?

In a typical year the canopy is at its best between the middle of October and the first days of November, and the third and fourth weeks of October are the most reliable. The road's high point is ~850 m above central Tbilisi, so the forest runs two or three weeks ahead of the city's trees and roughly in step with the Gombori forest on the road to Telavi.

Treat those dates as a starting point. A warm, dry September keeps the beech green longer, while an early frost or strong wind can bring the colour forward and strip the upper slopes within days. The lower woods and the tree-lined avenue past Ghulelebi turn a little later than the ridge top, so early November can still pay off.

How to pick your dayCheck photos posted from the Tianeti road in the past few days, not last year's dates, and go on the first clear weekday after copper shows in the treetops. A bright day after rain gives the richest colour.

Sabaduri in the other seasons

SeasonWhat you findGood to know
Winter (December to early March)Snow loaded on bare branchesSurest in January and February; winter tyres needed
Spring (April and May)New beech leaves, early flowersMuddy tracks after rain
Summer (June to August)Deep shade, cooler than the cityBusy picnic sites at weekends

How to get to Sabaduri from Tbilisi

By car or with a driver

Leave Tbilisi through Gldani, in the north of the city, and take the road signed for Tianeti instead of the main highway toward Mtskheta. It passes Mamkoda and the cottage resort of Tskhvarichamia, then enters the forest: ~1 hour from the centre on a weekday. It is asphalt all the way, with a few potholes, but narrow and full of bends, with few safe places to pull over. This is the direct route; coming from Zhinvali via Tianeti is far longer and partly unpaved.

Snowploughs clear the road after a fall, but ice lingers on shaded curves, so in winter use winter tyres and carry chains, or go with a driver in a 4x4.

Choose a weekdayOn fine weekends and holidays much of the city heads this way and the drive home crawls. Go midweek, or leave Tbilisi by 9 am and start back before 3 pm.

Without a car: minibus or taxi

Marshrutkas (minibuses) for Tianeti and Tskhvarichamia leave from Didube bus station and take ~1 hour on the same road. Ask to be let off in the Sabaduri forest at a picnic area or cafe. Getting back is harder: wait where an approaching driver can see you and stop safely, and find out the time of the last minibus before you go, as afternoon services are thin.

A taxi app gets you there easily, but finding a car back from the forest is not. A driver hired for the half day solves that and stops wherever the colour looks best.

Things to do in Sabaduri: walks, picnics and roadside stops

Most visitors drive gently through the trees, stop at a clearing, follow a forest track for a while and settle down to eat. The canopy looks far better from underneath than through a car window.

  • Short forest walks: unpaved forestry tracks lead off both sides of the road from the clearings. Walk 20 to 60 minutes in and come back the same way.
  • Picnics: the park has laid out picnic and camping areas with fire pits in the Sabaduri section, busy with Tbilisi families and barbecues on sunny weekends.
  • Photography: the high, winding section beyond Tskhvarichamia gives the classic shot of grey trunks under coloured leaves.
  • Soviet mosaics: on the drive up, look for the bright roadside mosaics of Tsiskari, an abandoned Soviet children's summer camp.
  • Khinkali in Ghulelebi: the village at the far edge of the forest is known for its dumplings and makes the obvious lunch stop.

For a real hike, the marked routes of Tbilisi National Park are on the Saguramo ridge to the west, where the ~15 km trail from Zedazeni Monastery to Mamkoda takes five to six hours. Our hiking in Georgia guide lists more walks near the capital.

Facilities and safety: what to know before you walk

Sabaduri is free to enter, with no ticket or registration. Services are basic: picnic and camping spots with fire pits, a few information boards, rental cottages and a handful of roadside cafes. Toilets are rare and there is no water to count on, so bring your own. In September 2025 the environment ministry said a visitor centre, car park, children's areas and ~55 km of trails for Sabaduri were close to completion; check whether they have opened.

  • No waymarks: until the new trails open, tracks inside Sabaduri are unmarked and branch often. Use an offline map, drop a pin where you park and return the way you came.
  • Stay off the road: there is little verge and many blind bends. Park fully clear of the asphalt and keep children close at roadside stops.
  • Fog and short days: cloud often hangs in the forest, and by late October it is dark soon after 6 pm. Be back at the car by mid-afternoon.
  • Wildlife: wolves and bears live in the wider park but avoid busy areas. Talk as you walk on quiet tracks and never leave food out.
  • Mushrooms: do not eat any that an expert has not identified.
  • Fire and litter: use only the built fire pits, take your rubbish home, and dial 112 in an emergency.
Good for familiesWalks here are as short as you like and lunch can be spread out next to the car, which suits small children. Pack warm layers: the forest is several degrees cooler than Tbilisi.

Sabaduri and other day trips from Tbilisi in autumn

On its own, Sabaduri makes an easy half day: ~2 hours of driving plus one to three hours among the trees. To fill a whole day, add one of these.

  1. Sioni Lake and Tianeti
    Drive ~30 minutes past Ghulelebi to the Sioni reservoir in open hills, then on to Tianeti, a highland town known for khinkali and dambalkhacho, a sharp aged cheese.
  2. Mtskheta
    Gldani is a short drive from Jvari Monastery and Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, so this is the easiest pairing: forest in the morning, the old capital after lunch.
  3. Ananuri and the Zhinvali Reservoir
    Return toward the city and drive up the Georgian Military Road to Ananuri fortress. On the way, the Bodorna rock column, a 15 m natural pillar with a cave cut into its base, stands ~3 km up a gravel track from Bodorna village.
  4. Kazbegi
    Heading to Stepantsminda for the night? An early Sabaduri detour adds ~2 to 3 hours and still leaves the afternoon for Gergeti. The back road from Tianeti to Zhinvali via Zaridzeebi skips Tbilisi but is partly unpaved and limited to 4x4s after heavy snow.

Our day trips from Tbilisi guide compares the classic outings, and our autumn colours guide follows the season across Georgia, from Svaneti in late September to Tbilisi in November.

We run Sabaduri as a private day trip from Tbilisi: any date, any group size, with a driver, a guide in your language and no age limit for children. Keep it to a half day, pair it with Mtskheta or Ananuri, or add it to the start of a Kazbegi trip, ideally with a night in Stepantsminda.

Sabaduri forest: frequently asked questions

Where is Sabaduri forest?

In Tbilisi National Park, on the Tbilisi-Tianeti road in Mtskheta-Mtianeti, ~45 km north-east of central Tbilisi. The drive out through Gldani and Tskhvarichamia takes ~1 hour.

When does Sabaduri forest change colour in autumn?

Usually mid-October to early November, with the third and fourth weeks of October the most dependable. The peak shifts with each year's weather, so check recent photos first.

How do I get to Sabaduri forest without a car?

Take a Tianeti or Tskhvarichamia minibus from Didube bus station and ask to be dropped in the forest. Confirm the last minibus back before you go; the return is the tricky part.

Are there hiking trails in Sabaduri forest?

Not waymarked ones yet, though a government trail project may change that. You can walk forest tracks from the picnic clearings; for a marked hike, use the Zedazeni to Mamkoda route nearby.

Is there snow in Sabaduri in winter?

Yes, most reliably in January and February, sometimes into early March. Go on a clear weekday after a fresh fall, with winter tyres or a 4x4.

Do you have to pay to enter Sabaduri forest?

No. Tbilisi National Park charges no entry fee for walks or picnics in Sabaduri; you pay only for food, cottages or a guided trip.

Maspindzeli Travel Team

Local hosts and guides based in Tbilisi. We drive these roads every week and update this guide each season.

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