Telavi
Kakheti's historic capital and best base for Alaverdi, Ikalto, Shuamta and Tsinandali, with a royal palace and a 900-year-old plane tree.
TelaviPhoto: Jelger Groeneveld, CC BY 2.0Telavi is the main town of Kakheti and the most practical base for exploring the Alazani Valley. It sits on the lower slopes of the Tsiv-Gombori range, looking across vineyards to the Greater Caucasus, and about 16,800 people live here. The centre is compact: the walled Batonis Tsikhe palace complex, an equestrian statue of King Erekle II, a busy bazaar and old houses with carved wooden balconies. Most of Kakheti's classic sights, including Alaverdi, Ikalto, Old and New Shuamta, Tsinandali and Gremi, are within about a 30-minute drive.
Telavi is also a good place to start a wine trip. Many family guesthouses make their own qvevri wine and will host a supra if you ask ahead, and several large wineries sit just outside town. Do not miss the giant plane tree (chinari), said to be about 900 years old and some 40 m tall. In the bazaar you can buy churchkhela, spices, cheese and hot tonis puri. Evenings are quiet, and most visitors stay one to three nights while doing day loops by car or taxi.
History
Telavi was a capital of the Kingdom of Kakheti from the 10th to 12th centuries and again from the 17th century. King Erekle II was born and died here; he ruled Kakheti from 1744 and united Kartli-Kakheti from 1762 until his death in 1798, and in that period Telavi was the second capital of eastern Georgia after Tbilisi. The town lost its royal status when the Russian Empire annexed the kingdom in 1801.
What to see and do
- Batonis Tsikhe, the 17th–18th-century royal palace and museum
- The giant plane tree, around 900 years old
- Telavi bazaar for churchkhela, cheese and spices
- Equestrian statue of King Erekle II
- Family qvevri cellars and wineries on the edge of town
How to visit
Getting there
Telavi is about 96 km from Tbilisi via the Gombori Pass (around 2 hours) or about 156 km via Sagarejo and Gurjaani (around 2.5 hours). Marshrutkas run from Tbilisi several times a day.
When to go
May–June and September–October. Plan half a day in town; 1–3 nights as a base here.
- The Gombori road is shorter but narrow and winding; take the Gurjaani highway in bad weather or after dark.
- Visit the bazaar in the morning, when it is busiest and the bread is fresh.
- Alaverdi, Ikalto, Shuamta and Tsinandali are all within about 20 km, so one base covers them all.
- Book a driver for winery days so nobody has to drive after tastings.
Telavi: FAQ
Is Telavi or Sighnaghi a better base in Kakheti?
Telavi is better placed for Alaverdi, Ikalto, Shuamta, Tsinandali and Gremi, and for the road to Tusheti. Sighnaghi is prettier and closer to Bodbe and the southern wine villages. Many travellers spend a night in each.
How far is Telavi from Tbilisi?
About 96 km via the Gombori Pass, or about 156 km via the Gurjaani highway. Expect 2 to 2.5 hours by car either way.
Tours that include Telavi
Read more in our guides
Photo: Alexxx1979, CC BY-SA 4.0A day-by-day loop from Tbilisi through Uplistsikhe, Kazbegi and Kakheti, showing how long each drive takes, where to eat and sleep, and realistic 2026 costs.
Photo: Q-lieb-in, CC BY-SA 4.0Colour starts near the treeline in late September and reaches Tbilisi in November. Here is when each region peaks, the walks to do there and which mountain roads shut first.
Photo: Vyacheslav Argenberg, CC BY 4.0When to go for hiking, wine, beaches or skiing, with monthly weather for Tbilisi, the coast and the Caucasus and the festivals worth timing a trip for.
Nearby places
Straight-line distance from Telavi.
