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Keselo Fortress

Restored 13th-century stone defence towers on the ridge above Upper Omalo, with wide views over Tusheti.

Keselo FortressKeselo FortressPhoto: Alex Maisuradze, CC BY-SA 3.0

Keselo is a group of stone defence towers on a rocky ridge just above Upper Omalo, and the best-known image of Tusheti. The towers are built of flat local stone in the traditional Tush way, tall and narrow with small openings and pyramid-shaped slate roofs. From the top you look down over both parts of Omalo and across Tusheti's valleys to the main ridge of the Caucasus. It is a short, steep walk from the village, and one of the best places in Tusheti to watch the sunset.

There were originally 13 towers, and by the 20th century most were in ruins. Restoration began in 2003, funded first by a Dutch family and later by the Keselo Foundation, and five towers have been rebuilt using medieval Tush building methods. During the work, archaeologists found rock-art motifs and Bronze Age axes and jewellery. Entry is free. The ridge is exposed to wind and sun, so bring a layer and a hat, and take care on the loose ground between the towers.

History

The towers were built in the 1230s, during the Mongol invasion of Georgia, when the people of Omalo used them as a refuge. They later sheltered villagers during raids from Dagestan. Most fell into ruin in the 20th century as people left the mountains. Restoration began in 2003, privately sponsored by Henk and Eliane Hooft and later by the Keselo Foundation, which also rebuilt a tower at Khiso on the road to Omalo.

What to see and do

  • Five restored medieval towers
  • Views over Omalo and Tusheti's valleys
  • Sunset from the ridge
  • Short walk from Upper Omalo

How to visit

Getting there

Keselo stands directly above Upper Omalo, a short, steep walk from the village. Omalo is 4 to 6 hours by 4x4 from Kvemo Alvani over the Abano Pass.

When to go

Sunset, July–September. Plan 1 hour here.

Local tips
  • Wear shoes with grip; the path is steep and loose.
  • Go at sunset or early morning for the best light.
  • Do not climb on unrestored walls.

Keselo Fortress: FAQ

How old is Keselo Fortress?

The towers were built in the 1230s as refuges during the Mongol invasion. Five of the original 13 have been rebuilt since 2003.

How do I get to Keselo from Omalo?

Walk up from Upper Omalo on a short, steep path. It takes only a few minutes from the upper village.