Mount UshbaPhoto: MaxBenidze, CC BY-SA 4.0Mount Ushba is the twin-spired granite massif that rises over the Becho valley in Upper Svaneti, ~10 km northwest of Mestia and only ~1.5 km short of the Russian frontier, though the whole mountain lies in Georgia. Its south summit is the higher at ~4,710 m, the north one reaches ~4,690 m, and the two tops stand ~640 m apart as the crow flies, joined by a snowy saddle. That double spire earned Ushba the nickname Matterhorn of the Caucasus. Several Caucasus peaks are taller, yet climbers widely regard the south top as the toughest summit anywhere in the range.
For most visitors Ushba is a view rather than a climb, and it is everywhere in western Svaneti on a clear day. Ride the chairlift from Mestia to the Zuruldi ridge, hike up to the Koruldi Lakes to see it reflected, or stay in Mazeri, where the south face fills the sky above the village. Fit walkers can follow the Dolra stream past the Shdugra waterfall to the moraine beneath the Ushba Glacier, or cross the Guli Pass for a face-on look at both tops. Reaching a summit means a multi-day alpine expedition with a certified mountain guide.
History
Svan tradition made Ushba a home of Dali, the goddess of hunting and wild animals, and its name is usually read as a warning of danger or misfortune, though the origin is unclear. Douglas Freshfield, passing in 1868, called an ascent unthinkable. In September 1888 the English climber John Cockin and the Swiss guide Ulrich Almer reached the north summit from the Guli Glacier side. The higher south top fell in July 1903 to a party from Willi Rickmer Rickmers's international expedition, led by Adolf Schulze days after a serious fall. In 1934 Alexandra and Alexander Japaridze, Iagor Kazalikashvili and Giorgi Niguriani made the first Georgian ascent and lit a summit fire.
What to see and do
- The twin summits from the Zuruldi ridge, by chairlift from Mestia
- Ushba mirrored in the Koruldi Lakes on a windless morning
- A long day hike up the Dolra stream to the edge of the Ushba Glacier
- Both tops seen head-on from the Guli Pass
- Distant views across the range from the Tetnuldi ski slopes
How to visit
Getting there
Mazeri, the village at the foot of the mountain, is ~25 km from Mestia by road, roughly 45 minutes by car or taxi. Mestia itself is ~450 km from Tbilisi (8 to 9 hours) or ~130 km from Zugdidi (about 3 hours), and the Hatsvali chairlift up to the Zuruldi viewpoint leaves from the edge of town.
When to go
June to September; clear mornings give the sharpest views. Plan 1 day for viewpoints or the glacier walk; several days for a summit climb here.
- Plan viewpoints for the morning. Cloud tends to build around the summits by midday, even when the valley floor stays sunny.
- Climbers must register with the Georgian Border Police in Becho or Mestia before entering the Ushba Glacier zone, which takes an hour or two, and should leave their route with the Mestia rescue service.
- All climbing routes now begin on the Georgian side, usually from Mazeri, because the old approaches from the Russian valleys are no longer allowed.
- Our private Svaneti Hiking Week spends a night in Mazeri and walks up toward the glacier; you get a guide in your language, and the inclusions are set out on the tour page.
Mount Ushba: FAQ
How high is Mount Ushba?
Mount Ushba's south summit, the higher of its two tops, is usually given as ~4,710 m and the north summit as ~4,690 m. A few databases list the south top slightly higher, at 4,737 m.
Why is Ushba called the Matterhorn of the Caucasus?
Its two steep rock horns reminded early British mountaineers of the famous Alpine peak, and Douglas Freshfield called it the Caucasian Matterhorn after his 1868 journey. Climbers and guidebooks have used the name ever since.
Can a beginner climb Ushba?
No. Even the easiest line, the north ridge to the lower summit via the Ushba Plateau, is a long glacier and ridge climb graded Russian 4A, and the south summit routes are harder still. Without alpine experience, the walk from Mazeri to the glacier moraine is the safe way to get close.
Where is the best place to see Ushba?
Mazeri gives the closest view from a road. Near Mestia, take the Hatsvali chairlift to the Zuruldi ridge or hike to the Koruldi Lakes, and on the Guli Pass trek the two summits fill the whole skyline.
Nearby places
Straight-line distance from Mount Ushba.
