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Surami Fortress

Hilltop fortress in the old resort town of Surami, guarding the road between eastern and western Georgia, and the subject of a famous legend.

Surami FortressSurami FortressPhoto: А.Мухранов, CC BY-SA 3.0

Surami Fortress stands on a rocky hill above the small town of Surami, near Khashuri at the western edge of Shida Kartli. From here it guarded the road from eastern to western Georgia over the Surami Pass and the entrance to the Borjomi gorge. Its earliest parts may date from the 12th century, though the exact building date is unknown. Today the walls and towers are ruined, but the hill gives good views over the town and the wooded Likhi range.

The fortress is best known for its legend. The walls kept collapsing during construction until a fortune teller said they would only stand if a widow's only son, Zurab, was walled up inside them. The writer Daniel Chonkadze told the story in the 19th century, and Sergei Parajanov filmed it as The Legend of Suram Fortress in 1985. Surami is also an old climatic resort, and roadside bakeries sell nazuki, its sweet bread.

History

People settled at Surami in the early Bronze Age. The fortress, possibly begun in the 12th century, controlled one of the main routes across Georgia, at the point where the road from the Kartli plain climbs toward the Likhi range and western Georgia. The local legend of the youth Zurab, walled into the fortress so it would stand, entered Georgian literature through Daniel Chonkadze (1830–1860) and reached world cinema through Parajanov's 1985 film.

What to see and do

  • Ruined walls and towers on the hill
  • Views over Surami and the Likhi range
  • The legend of Zurab
  • Fresh nazuki bread from roadside bakeries

How to visit

Getting there

Surami is about 120 km west of Tbilisi, just off the E60 highway near Khashuri, about 1 hour 45 minutes by car. Marshrutkas and trains to Khashuri stop nearby, and it is on the way to Borjomi or Kutaisi.

When to go

Spring to autumn. Plan 30 minutes–1 hour here.

Local tips
  • Stop at the nazuki stalls on the main road; the bread is best warm.
  • The path up can be loose; wear sensible shoes.
  • Combine with the drive to Borjomi, about 30 km away.

Surami Fortress: FAQ

What is the legend of Surami Fortress?

Legend says the fortress walls kept falling down until a widow's only son, Zurab, was walled up alive inside them. Parajanov's 1985 film The Legend of Suram Fortress tells the story.

What is nazuki?

Nazuki is a sweet, lightly spiced bread with raisins, baked in clay ovens and sold at roadside stalls in Surami. It is a classic snack on the drive between Tbilisi and western Georgia.