- December in lowland Georgia is chilly rather than harsh: Tbilisi's average high is 8.2°C and its average low 0.9°C, with little rain, while Batumi on the Black Sea is milder (13.7 / 7.3°C) but collects about 277 mm of rain in the month.
- Ski lifts usually begin turning after mid-December: Gudauri opened on 20, 21 and 27 December in the last three winters, and the state operator names each date only a few days ahead.
- The high roads to Tusheti, Shatili and over the Zagari Pass are shut for the winter and the Goderdzi Pass closes towards Akhaltsikhe, while the road to Kazbegi stays open but can close for a day after a storm.
- The first half of December is one of the cheapest, emptiest times of the year; prices climb from about 20 December and peak from about 27 December into mid-January.
- 25 December is an ordinary working day here: the big night is 31 December, and Orthodox Christmas with the Alilo procession follows on 7 January.
Is Georgia in December worth a trip? Yes, if you want a festive capital, wine tasted next to a wood stove and the first ski days of the winter, and you do not mind short days. The lowlands are cold and mostly dry, the Caucasus is white, and from mid-month Tbilisi switches on its lights and opens its New Year market. You give up trekking, the beach and the remote mountain valleys; you gain empty monasteries, low prices early in the month and a real Georgian New Year at the end of it.
Below: December weather region by region from official climate data, the usual pattern of ski openings, the mountain roads that close, what stays open, how prices move through the month, three sample itineraries and a packing list. To compare all twelve months, see the best time to visit Georgia; for the month before, Georgia in November. Our private tours run on any date in December, for any group size.
December weather region by region: Tbilisi, the coast and the mountains
December is when winter takes hold, but how it feels depends on altitude and on which side of the mountains you stand. The east, with Tbilisi and Kakheti, lies in the lee of the Greater Caucasus and stays fairly dry: frosty nights, cool afternoons, grey spells broken by clear blue days. The west opens onto the Black Sea, so it is milder and far wetter. Above about 1,500 m it is proper winter. The averages below are the short version; our Georgia weather in December page has the month figures for dozens of towns and resorts.
| Place | Average high / low | Rain or snow in the month | What to expect |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tbilisi | 8.2 / 0.9°C | 20.8 mm on ~4 days | Crisp, often grey, with bright spells; frost on ~12 nights |
| Kakheti (Telavi) | 8.0 / -0.1°C | 29.4 mm on ~5 days | Like Tbilisi but frostier, on ~15 nights; hilltop Sighnaghi a touch colder |
| Kutaisi | 11.6 / 5.5°C | 142.8 mm on ~11 days | Mild and damp, green hills; snow lies on ~3 days |
| Batumi | 13.7 / 7.3°C | 277.1 mm on ~13 days | The warmest corner of the country and the wettest; sea at ~14°C |
| Stepantsminda (~1,740 m) | About 1 / -6°C | ~28 mm, mostly as snow | Snowy village under Kazbek, dazzling on clear days |
| Gudauri (~2,200 m) | About -1 / -8°C | ~95 mm on ~10 days | Snowpack building before the lifts start; wind on the ridges |
| Bakuriani (~1,700 m) | About 1 / -8°C | ~54 mm on ~9 days | Snow in the spruce forest, bitterly cold clear nights |
| Mestia (~1,500 m) | About 2 / -5°C | ~77 mm on ~11 days | Deep winter in Upper Svaneti, with heavy snowfalls at times |
Sources: World Meteorological Organization normals for 1991-2020 (Georgia's National Environmental Agency, published by NOAA) for Tbilisi, Telavi and Kutaisi; our 2011-2025 station averages for Batumi; older records and the national building-climate norm for the rounded mountain rows.
Daylight: the shortest days of the year
In Tbilisi the sun rises at about 08:09 on 1 December and about 08:28 on the 31st, and sets between about 17:30 and 17:40 all month, which gives roughly 9 hours 10 minutes of daylight around the solstice on 21 December. Batumi runs 12 to 13 minutes later at both ends. Georgia keeps UTC+4 all year, so finish mountain drives by about 16:30 and save the dark hours for baths, museums and long dinners.
Is Georgia in December worth it? Pros and cons
December works for travellers who love cities, food, wine, history and snow, and not for hikers or beach lovers. It also has two moods: the first half is calm and cheap, the second festive and busy.
| Good in December | Not good in December |
|---|---|
| Tbilisi museums, sulphur baths, opera and wine bars, then the holiday lights | Multi-day treks in Svaneti, Kazbegi, Tusheti or Khevsureti |
| Kakheti cellars, with this autumn's young wine and a fire in the hearth | Tusheti and Shatili, cut off by snow until about June |
| The first ski days at Gudauri, Bakuriani, Goderdzi and in Svaneti, usually from the second half of the month | A guaranteed ski week in early December: lifts seldom turn before mid-month |
| Mtskheta, Uplistsikhe, Vardzia and the caves of Imereti with hardly any queues | Swimming: the sea at Batumi has cooled to about 14°C |
| Some of the lowest room rates of the year in the first half of the month | Bargain rooms in ski resorts over New Year |
Early or late December?
Pick 1 to about 18 December for empty sights, the lowest prices and, in most years, the Tbilisi International Film Festival. Pick the days after about 20 December for the lights, the market and open ski lifts, and book early around New Year's Eve.
December dates and the festive season, from the film festival to 7 January
Because the Georgian Orthodox Church still counts by the Julian calendar, its Christmas lands on 7 January and 25 December is a normal working day. The great December celebration is New Year: streets are decorated from mid-month, markets appear, and the holiday mood lasts until the Old New Year, seen in overnight from 13 to 14 January.
| When | What | Where and how |
|---|---|---|
| Usually the first week (1-7 December in 2025; 2026 dates not yet out) | Tbilisi International Film Festival | Amirani cinema and other venues |
| Mid-December (12 December in 2025) | New Year village opens, tree and lights switched on | Central Tbilisi; Batumi lights up too |
| 17 December | Barbaroba, Saint Barbara's Day | Families bake lobiani, bread filled with spiced beans; not a day off |
| 25 December | Western Christmas, an ordinary working day | Catholic and Protestant churches in Tbilisi hold services |
| 31 December, then 1-2 January | New Year's Eve, then two public holidays | Fireworks at midnight; banks and many shops shut on the 1st and 2nd |
| 7 January | Orthodox Christmas and the Alilo processions | Night liturgy at Sameba; Alilo walk in Tbilisi in the early afternoon |
The Christmas market and the lights, in brief
The main market is the city's New Year village of wooden stalls, rides and a skating rink around a giant tree. Last season it stood on First Republic Square from 12 December, and the tree and rink stayed until 14 January. Expect a mid-December opening again, confirmed by City Hall only days ahead. Entry is free; you pay for mulled Saperavi, sweets and rides. Details are in our Tbilisi Christmas market guide.
New Year's Eve, in brief
On 31 December most families stay home around a table of satsivi, churchkhela and gozinaki, the honey and walnut brittle of the holidays. At midnight fireworks go up from balconies and hillsides, best watched from Narikala or Mtatsminda. Restaurants that open serve fixed menus that sell out weeks ahead, taxis are scarce that night, and on 1 and 2 January the banks shut and plenty of shops stay closed, so keep some cash. Markets also sell the chichilaki, a dried hazelnut branch shaved into white curls that stands in for a Christmas tree in many homes.
Staying into January: Christmas on the 7th and Alilo
Stretch the trip to 7 January to see Christmas the Georgian way: a night liturgy at Sameba Cathedral led by the Patriarch, then the Alilo procession of carol singers, priests and children dressed as angels collecting gifts for families in need. The 2026 walk set off at about 14:00 from First Republic Square and arrived at Sameba near 16:00.
Ski season in December: when Gudauri, Bakuriani, Goderdzi and Svaneti open
By December the resorts are usually white, yet the lifts have no fixed start date. The state operator, the Mountain Trails Agency (MTA), waits for a deep enough base and announces each opening a few days ahead; on 19 October 2026 it had posted nothing about 2026/27. Recent winters show the pattern:
| Resort | Top of the lifts | Opened 2024/25 | Opened 2025/26 | December outlook |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gudauri | 3,276 m | 21 December | 27 December | Also 20 December in 2023/24; plan ski days from about the 27th |
| Bakuriani | ~2,700 m at Didveli | 7 December, on machine-made snow | 20 December (Kokhta), 22 December (Didveli) | Snow cannons allow an early start, but it is lower and drier than Gudauri |
| Goderdzi | ~2,360 m | 14 December | 27 December | The snowiest resort, reached from Batumi; fog can halt the lifts |
| Hatsvali (Mestia) | ~2,350 m | 21 December | 27 December | Short, gentle runs right above Mestia |
| Tetnuldi (Svaneti) | ~3,160 m | 21 December, first two lifts | In stages from late December | Long, high runs; the upper lifts wait for snow |
Put simply, the lifts start between mid-December and the last days of the month, and a ski week beginning before about 27 December is a gamble. Booking sites already list 2026/27 dates for Gudauri, from 19 December to 2 January, but these are forecasts. Snow is surest from mid-January to March, so in December treat skiing as a first taste.
One more December story: the Kukushka, the narrow-gauge train from Borjomi to Bakuriani, closed for rebuilding, is due back in December 2026, the government said in October. Check before you rely on it.
For runs, lift passes and transfers, our ski resorts in Georgia comparison has the detail, and the Gudauri weather guide follows the snow on the Military Road.
Which mountain roads close in December
By December the high gravel roads are shut until late spring, while the main highways stay open, with closures of a few hours or a day after storms. The Roads Department notices for 2022-2026 show this pattern:
| Road | In December | Usually opens again |
|---|---|---|
| Abano Pass to Tusheti (2,950 m) | Closed: the winter closure usually comes in October | Late May to late June |
| Datvisjvari Pass to Shatili, Khevsureti (2,676 m) | Closed or closing: winter closures fell between early November and late December, and in 2026 a landslide at km 96 has blocked it since 30 August | Late May or early June |
| Zagari Pass, Ushguli to Lentekhi (~2,620 m) | Closed: shut between late October and early December | Late May or June |
| Goderdzi Pass, Adjara to Akhaltsikhe (2,027 m) | Usually closed by mid-December towards Akhaltsikhe; the ski resort stays open from the Batumi side | Late April to mid-May |
| Jvari Pass on the road to Kazbegi (~2,380 m) | Open, but Gudauri-Kobi shuts after blizzards or avalanche warnings: 10 to 17 days a winter lately, in some years from late November | Open all year |
| Mestia to Ushguli | Open; chains often compulsory for cars from December to March | Open all year |
| Gombori Pass, Tbilisi to Telavi | Open, with brief snow closures | Open all year |
Gudauri-Kobi is the stretch most likely to affect a December trip: Gudauri itself is reached without crossing it, but Stepantsminda and Gergeti lie beyond. A tunnel bypass from Kvesheti to Kobi had no opening date in October 2026, so this winter traffic still uses the old pass.
From 1 December to 1 March, mountain sections named in a government decree require winter tyres marked with a snowflake and carrying 3 mm or more of tread; officers can also insist on chains, and ignoring the rule costs 100 GEL. Ask for both with any rental car, or travel with a local driver.
Things to do in Georgia in December
December rewards a slower rhythm: a late start, one museum or cellar, a long lunch and a warm evening. These are our favourite ideas for the month.
Tbilisi and the east
- Soak in a sulphur bath in Abanotubani after dark. Shared public sections charge about 15 GEL (about $6) in 2026; book a private room ahead for the festive weekends.
- See an opera or ballet on Rustaveli Avenue, or new Georgian films at the festival in early December.
- Give a grey morning to the Georgian National Museum and its Colchian gold (closed on Mondays), then warm up over khinkali.
- Take the cabin lift from Rike Park up to Narikala and look down on the lights; in winter it usually runs until about 22:00.
- Hunt for churchkhela, dried persimmons and gozinaki at Dezerter Bazaar, packed in the last week of the year.
- Taste wine by the fire in Kakheti's family cellars and walk Sighnaghi's walls on a clear morning, with the snowy range across the valley.
- See Jvari and Svetitskhoveli in Mtskheta, half an hour from Tbilisi, often with nobody else around.
The west and the south
- Go underground at Prometheus Cave near Kutaisi, open daily 10:00-17:30 at about 40 GEL (about $15) in 2026 per foreign adult: the ideal wet-day plan.
- Pair Gelati Monastery's 12th-century mosaics with Sataplia's dinosaur footprints; its glass deck closes in rain and snow.
- Try Batumi out of season: an empty seafront, the Botanical Garden, festive lights and fried hamsi, the Black Sea anchovies of winter.
- Sip the springs in Borjomi's park, then drive up to Bakuriani for sledging and, once the lifts open, a first day on skis.
- Explore Vardzia, Queen Tamar's cave town, almost alone. It is open all year with shorter winter hours; a rockfall in May 2026 shut only a small part of it, and the rest is open.
What is open and closed in December
| Status | What |
|---|---|
| Open as usual | Tbilisi's sights, baths, cable cars and museums (many shut on Mondays); Mtskheta, Uplistsikhe, David Gareja and Kakheti's wineries; Kutaisi, Gelati and Prometheus Cave; Borjomi; Batumi; Vardzia, where only a small section is closed |
| Open, weather permitting | Gergeti Trinity Church (the track up is often icy), Sataplia's glass deck and Martvili's boats (both stop in rain and snow), the Argo cable car in Batumi (stops in strong wind), Ushguli (4x4 and chains) |
| Out of season or closed | The Okatse Canyon walkway (season April to November), Tusheti, Shatili, the Zagari Pass, Bakhmaro, the Truso valley, high treks such as Mestia to Ushguli or the Chaukhi Pass, and the beach |
Ski villages run on the opposite calendar: many hotels and shops in Gudauri open only for winter and come alive in the second half of December. Mestia is reachable all year by road from Zugdidi, but its small planes fly by sight only, so cloud or snow can cancel them; keep a spare day.
No public holiday falls in December, so museums and shops keep normal hours until 31 December. The closures come with the new year, on 1, 2 and 7 January.
Prices and crowds: the two halves of December
The first half of December is among the quietest stretches of the Georgian year. Away from the ski resorts, hotels in Tbilisi, Kakheti and Kutaisi charge close to their lowest rates and a day or two's notice is usually enough. Flights tend to cost more over Christmas and New Year, as they do across Europe.
From about 20 December demand builds, and from about 27 December to mid-January the resorts and central Tbilisi are at their fullest and dearest. Georgians take their own long break then, with public holidays on 1, 2, 7 and 19 January, and many families head for Gudauri and Bakuriani. Reserve New Year rooms early, with free cancellation, and book your New Year's Eve dinner by early December.
| Dates | Crowds | Prices |
|---|---|---|
| 1-18 December | Very quiet; mostly locals at the sights | Among the lowest of the year away from the resorts |
| 19-26 December | Festive Tbilisi; resorts filling as the lifts open | Rising, but rooms still easy to find in the regions |
| 27-31 December | Peak: resorts and central Tbilisi fully booked | The highest of the month; book weeks ahead |
| 1-14 January | Georgian holiday season, busy slopes | High until about mid-January |
Three sample December itineraries
1. Early December, 5 days: Tbilisi, wine and a snowy mountain day
- Day 1: Old Tbilisi
Abanotubani, Narikala by cable car and the Sololaki lanes, then a sulphur bath and dinner. - Day 2: Museums and markets
The National Museum, Dezerter Bazaar, then a film festival screening, the opera or a natural wine bar. - Day 3: Kazbegi
Ananuri on the way north, then Gergeti Trinity Church if the Jvari Pass is clear; if it is shut, we do Kakheti today and Kazbegi tomorrow. - Day 4: Kakheti
Bodbe, Sighnaghi's walls, lunch and tasting in a family cellar, then back to Tbilisi. - Day 5: Mtskheta and departure
Jvari and Svetitskhoveli on the way to the airport, plus Uplistsikhe if your flight leaves late.
2. 26 December to 2 January, 8 days: ski days and New Year's Eve
- Day 1 (26 December): Tbilisi
Arrive, then the Christmas market and dinner in the Old Town. - Day 2: Tbilisi
A guided walk, the baths and a shopping run for churchkhela and gozinaki. - Day 3: Up to Gudauri
About 2 to 2.5 hours via Ananuri; collect skis and take a first lesson if the lifts are turning. - Days 4-5: Gudauri
Two days on the slopes, or snowshoe walks, sledging and a trip to Stepantsminda if the opening is late. - Day 6 (31 December): Back to Tbilisi
Down by early afternoon, then a New Year's Eve supra and the midnight fireworks from a viewpoint. - Days 7-8 (1-2 January): Quiet days and departure
A slow New Year's Day with a riverside walk, then Jvari and Svetitskhoveli in Mtskheta on the way to the airport.
3. West and south, 6 days: caves, Borjomi, Bakuriani and Vardzia
- Day 1: Kutaisi
Fly into Kutaisi or drive from Tbilisi; Bagrati Cathedral and the market. - Day 2: Caves and monasteries
Gelati, Motsameta, Sataplia and Prometheus Cave, a good plan whatever the weather. - Day 3: Borjomi
Through the Borjomi gorge to the mineral springs and the park. - Day 4: Bakuriani
Up by road, or on the Kukushka if it has restarted; sledging, forest walks or a first ski day. - Day 5: Vardzia
Via Akhaltsikhe and Rabati Castle to the cave town, with a night nearby. - Day 6: Back to Tbilisi
About 260 km via Borjomi and Gori, with Uplistsikhe if daylight allows.
What to pack for Georgia in December
- A warm, windproof coat, plus a down jacket for the mountains, where nights fall to -8°C or lower
- Waterproof boots with a deep tread for slick stone lanes in Tbilisi and rain in Kutaisi and Batumi
- Thermal layers, a hat and gloves for Kazbegi and the resorts; sunglasses and sunscreen for snow glare
- Something smart for the opera or a New Year's Eve dinner
- A scarf and a long skirt or trousers for churches; women cover their hair
- Swimwear for the sulphur baths, and a power bank, since cold drains phone batteries fast
- Your travel insurance papers: cover is compulsory for every foreign visitor, and skiers should check that winter sports are included
Georgia in December: FAQ
Is December a good time to visit Georgia?
Yes, for city breaks, wine, food, history and the start of the ski season, with a quiet first half and a festive second half. It is not a month for trekking, the beach or remote valleys such as Tusheti, whose road is closed.
What is Georgia's weather in December?
Cool and fairly dry in the east, mild and wet in the west. In Tbilisi the average high is 8.2°C, the average low 0.9°C and the month brings about 21 mm of rain; Batumi's figures are 13.7°C, 7.3°C and about 277 mm. Above about 1,500 m expect frost every night and regular snow.
Does it snow in Tbilisi in December?
Now and then, but it rarely settles: snow covers the ground on fewer than two days in an average December, while frosty nights number about a dozen. In the mountains, from Stepantsminda to Bakuriani, snow is normal by December.
When do the ski resorts in Georgia open?
Usually after mid-December. Gudauri's lifts started on 27 December in 2025, 21 December in 2024 and 20 December in 2023, with only a few days' notice each time; Bakuriani once opened on 7 December on machine-made snow.
Is Christmas celebrated in Georgia on 25 December?
No. The Georgian Orthodox Church keeps Christmas on 7 January, so 25 December is a working day. The big night is 31 December, and Christmas follows with night services and the Alilo processions on 7 January.
Can you visit Kazbegi in December?
Usually, yes. The road to Stepantsminda stays open, but the Gudauri-Kobi stretch over the Jvari Pass can close for a day or more after heavy snow. Keep the date flexible and travel with a driver who has winter tyres and chains.
Which are the best things to do in Georgia in December?
Sulphur baths, museums and festive lights in Tbilisi, cellars in Kakheti, the caves near Kutaisi, Borjomi and Vardzia without crowds, a snowy day in Kazbegi and, late in the month, the first ski days at Gudauri or Bakuriani.
Is Georgia expensive in December?
Not in the first half, when hotels away from the ski resorts charge the cheapest rates of their year. Prices rise from about 20 December and are highest between about 27 December and mid-January, especially in the resorts and central Tbilisi.
